some update’s and new’s
Well, got my parts today, as many of you know, maybe not though, I have been having HUGE problems with wobble, I would put a left or right stick input and after it set back to hover position there was a nasty wobble, well I figured that out WITH A FLUKE of the draw.
Apparently last time i changed my main shaft i grabbed a wrong bolt, the bolt that goes through the bottom of the main gear through the main shaft, i used a same length one, but not same diameter now the main shaft has no side to side play or slop WOOT WOOT!!
On my journey today, at the same time as ordering the main blade grips the the dfc upgrade, i ordered the shims & new upper & lower main bearing blocks. They arrived today, and when i was ready to install them SHIT BALLS they were to small, i started scratching my head and looked it up, i ordered the Trex 500 PRO ones, not the Trex500 efl WTF why can’t align just make the same chassis parts ALL the same and compatible, one of the ERKS of this brand that’s for sure.
I put the original ones back in as a friend said they were fine but id still like to replace them because i want SMOOTH not grindy feeling bearings.
ANWAYS I emailed rotorquest asking if i can swap them out if i paid return shipping for the new proper ones..Hopefully they exchange them for me ! since i have dropped several THOUSANDS of $$ at their store.
Pics of the head before i put it into the heli..
I bought a new PL6 charger to charge my 12s Stick packs ( batt’s soon to come, baby steps )
Did tons of reading, seeing what others are using for their psu’s and setups. SO i followed some advice and did what others do. Bought 2 HP DPS-600PB Server PSU’s.
Project information came from these 2 sites,
Grounding information came from this one.
Pic’s of my setup..
[B]DC[/B] Ground cut from AC main line chassis ground, in case of failure etc etc.
PSU’s tied together & tested.
Both working & charger connected.
Using the new soldering / torch, i was able to put on all bullets for the ESC & Motor.
One of the tricks i learned about this is, make sure the bare soldered end from the wire that is going into the bullet is a little shorter than the “DEPTH” of the bullet, that way you don’t have any wire sticking out.
Another trick is, when you have the solder in the bullet “CUP PART ” and the solder is in liquid forum, as you put the wire in, go slow but also twist it a little so the wire heats up and the solder on the wire melts with the stuff in the bullet giving you a good connection..
Bought a soldering iron / torch. I already have a nice weller iron, but i bought this so i can heat up the large gold plated EC5 connectors.
Soldered on a EC5 male piece, this works awesome.
A male end on the positive & negative lead on the ESC.
The jumper between the two.
Bought two baggies of these EC3’s for my batteries, i started seeing people using these and well i gave em a try, sure love them more than DEANS.
This is the power harness from the Lipo battery to the HC3-sx.
AND the battery with the end on it.
Arriving, the 2 brand new DSM-X satellites for my Heli, since the HC3-sx is a standalone unit, you can connect 2 satellites to it, and run it like that.
YAY! Wire arrived, this stuff is super nice and thick and is is very easy to move, like a wet noodle, 10AWG wire for the batteries for my ESC
When I ordered y other goodies with my Christmas gift cards I bought a hanger to hand my goblin 700 up, pictures don’t do justice of actually how big it is. It takes up a crap load of space.
Heli’s together hanging in their corner.
Bracket on the wall,
Bought my self a nicer charger, this one will to parallel charging AND up to 1000watts. This will be nice for when I need to charge my 12s stick packs, and it will do it fast and accurately too! When you spend 300$ on a battery, you don’t want to mess it up, or under / over charge it. it needs to be balanced.